Dear Hydrangea Enthusiasts,
Happy New Year!
Welcome to the first edition of 2007 for our Hydrangeas Plus® newsletter.
We here at Hydrangeas Plus hope you and your family had a wonderful
Holiday season.
It seems that I always talk about the weather in this first paragraph and
this month is no different. After record rain in November and December,
we again are building the ark and lining up two of every variety of hydrangea
just in case it rains for 40 days and 40 nights.
We are traveling to Ohio for a trade show in Columbus and then having a
delayed Christmas celebration with our Ohio family so we're targeting to
resume our hydrangea shipping in the last week of January. As always we
will contact you before we ship for those orders placed in colder zones.
It's really important that we ship the plants after your frost date
has past. If you don't get frost, we'll ship your order as soon as
possible. Orders are already pouring in so order early for your favorite
varieties. The new '1-year' hydrangeas should be ready by April 2007
although some may be ready earlier. I just need to get out there and
check them.
We're getting tons of orders already for the new varieties and I don't even
have pictures uploaded on the computer yet. This is a great sign for
2007!! Get your orders in early.
Yard, Garden & Patio Show in Portland, OR - Block Party
(http://www.ygpshow.com)
We are participating in this wonderful show again. Hydrangeas Plus®
will be selling 30 to 40 varieties of hydrangeas from our booth. Our
booth number is #1 in the Remarkable Green market.
Please come visit us and place your orders for spring or buy some new
hydrangeas to take home. We're offering the hydrangeas at below catalog
prices so it will be a great time to pick up those hydrangeas you've been
looking for at a great price. Including our new offerings!
What is the Yard, Garden & Patio Show? Let me give you the highlights....
The show is February 23, 24 & 25th at the Oregon Convention Center.
Hours are 10 am – 9 pm Friday & Saturday then 10 am – 6 pm on Sunday.
Watch for $2 off admission coupons online soon. Admission is $11,
free to kids 12 and under. Join us at Portland's True Garden Event.
That's the Oregon Convention Center. Remember, this is the show
that is developed, marketed and presented by the Oregon Association of Nurseries.
It's largest consumer gardening event in the US that is exclusively
produced by a state association and volunteers. Come out and support
your local green ware companies.
The New Catalog is coming, LAST CHANCE FOR A FREE COPY!!
Yes, we're still working on the catalog but the final version is going
to the printer on Monday. We are making our last effort to get your
address updated in our mailing list. Deadline is January 12th
to sign up.
Please keep us up-to-date on any address changes. We'll be addressing
the catalogs on January 15th. Again, if you haven't ordered in the last
few year, you may not be signed up to receive a free catalog. Sign
up NOW! Just send me your name, address, phone number and I'll sign
you up.
SECRET CODE - The best way to sign up for the catalog is to use
our coupon code CAT7 after you put the 2007 catalog into your shopping cart.
This will really save me some time if you don't mind filling out the
information page. This is a special code that I've created just for
you subscribers of the newsletter. here's how to order the catalog...
go to www.hydrangeasplus.com
In the left hand box called Categories select Order Catalog
Select Hydrangeas Plus Catalog VOLUME 7 by pressing Buy Now button
(Shopping cart should illustrate that the VOLUME 7 is in your shopping
cart for $4.75)
Below the cart you should see a box for discount coupon. In the
coupon code box type CAT7 and press the submit button
(Shopping cart will recalculate and total cost should be zero for the
catalog)
Select the Checkout button
Fill in your personal information and select the Submit button
(you'll get an email with an order number but catalog will be sent at NO
cost)
This offer is only good until January 12th.
Belgium Hydrangea Conference
All you hydrangea fanatics out there, need an excuse to go to
Europe? Visit the Mallet mecca for hydrangeas? There is the
International Hydrangea conference schedules for 2007 at the Ghent University
Botanical Garden in Belgium. The dates are August 16 - 19, 2007.
All the experts IN THE WORLD will be there for this wonderful conference.
Start saving your pennies - or $100s! More information to
follow about coordinating US registration.
See more on the website at www.hydrangea2007.be/en
New varieties coming in January
I've put them all on the website. I'm just working on
the pictures now. You're going to love these!!
Hydrangea Aspera Mauvette - Fabulous mauve-est of the Aspera
Hydrangea Serrata Intermedia - Imagine a hedge full of color
and blooms all season long
Hydrangea Serrata Shirofuji - A rare white blooming Serrata
- snow capped Mt Fuji
from last month's newsletter
Hydrangea Macrophylla Izo No Hana - Flowers of the Izo peninsula
Hydrangea Macrophylla Blauer Zwerg - The hydrangea truly named the Blue
Dwarf
Hydrangea Macrophylla President R. Touchard - Here comes the prize of
cut flowers
from November's newsletter
Dichroa Febrifuga – Hydrangea like foliage that stays green all
year long
Hydrangea Quelpartensis – Originally from the Quelpart Island of
Korea
Hydrangea Serrata Miranda - Showy and super hardy but as dainty
as a princess
Winter tip - Getting ready for hydrangea planting
It may be a little early for some parts of the country but I saw that
many of us are experiencing warmer than usual temperatures. The rain
and wind may prohibit some of our spring preparation but the sooner your
ground is ready for hydrangeas (and new shrubs in general), the sooner you
can get them in the ground and growing. Hydrangeas and most shrubs
like well draining soil. This allows the roots to grow and reach for
and absorb vital nutrients. Compact soil typically results in stunted
top growth and poor absorption of nutrients for hydrangeas. It can also
lead to the roots drowning if soil doesn't allow water to drain. Just
digging a hole and putting a shrub in the landscape won't guarantee success.
What can you do about compact soil? Amend, amend and amend. Amend
with composted material that is clean and has aged well. Pay special
attention to salt and nitrogen content of manures and other homemade mixes.
Check the pH of your soil. Absorption of chemicals is optimized with
slightly to moderately acidic soil. That means, less applications of
fertilizers and amendments if the pH is corrected.
All clay soil is not created equal. My first gardening class was
a true eye opener. There are several different types of clay and not
everything breaks it down the same. Breakdown salty clay with gypsum,
a mineral amendment that replaces salt with calcium.
Amend soil three or four times the size the anticipated root ball size.
The bigger the better. Give your plant a great start by giving
it's root system lots of room to grow.
Commonly Asked Questions
Q: Hi, I have been trying to find the water proofed felt
blankets you mentioned putting around some of the more tender hydrangeas,
but have had no luck here in the Louisville area. Any idea for a source for
these? Many thanks and happy holidays
A: I think the error I made was saying it had to be water proof.
Water resistant is more appropriate. I should have corrected that in
the newsletter.
If you use frost cloth for your vegetable, it can be used for the hydrangeas
and other shrubs as well.
I looked online and there really isn't one universal brand of frost blanket.
Of course there are tons! Several online stores are selling it but
I'm sorry I don't have a good recommendation for one of those sites.
I use Amazon all the time but there was an interesting company called Planket
that had covers that were green - a little more pleasing to the eye than
gray or dirt colored.
Good luck. Great idea.
Q: Which hydrangeas do you recommend for the seaside
that can tolerate a little exposure to the ocean side? I am in Malibu. I
always see tons growing in Britany, France and they seem to love being close
to the sea. On the sea side of the house there is not much shade, I do have
shade on the other side of the house and they are very protected there. I
would love to find some to put on the sea side....
A: Hydrangeas on your beach won't be able to take a lot of sun.
The protected side would be much better for the macrophylla (mopheads and
lacecaps). The serratas and Paniculatas and possibly the Oakleaf varieties
can take more sun than the macrophylla types. And, these types will
do better in your sandy soil. Macrophylla really need more acidic soil
to grow and thrive. You can always amend the soil or put the macrophylla
in containers - just keep them watered in your hot months.
Some of my favorites for containers
Hornli
Blue Danube
Enziandom
Merritt's supreme
For sandy soil
Serrata Blue Deckle
Serrata Preziosa
Paniculata Burgundy Lace
Oakleaf (Quercifolia) PeeWee
Thank you for your questions.
Q: Well, I believe that the weather is following last
years course. Hopefully, not as bad as last year. We had a week of cold weather,
down to about 25 degrees then last week it was in the 70's for a few days.
That was enough for some of the buds to open up. Then it got cold again this
week, gradually down to about 15 degrees. My question is "If the buds open,
just a little with some green leaves peeking out, will they be totally lost
for next season (i.e. will there be any flower heads)?". I am speaking about
mophead hydrangeas. I can protect them in the spring from the cold but can't
protect them from late fall warm weather. Or can I? Thank you for your time
and expertise,
A: Yes, the changes in fall temperatures can be just as dangerous
to the blooms as the spring temperatures. It's hard to tell by visual
inspection if it will damage the blooms for next year. In my experience,
sudden temperature swings in the fall typically delay the blooming and rarely
does it totally leave the plant bloomless. You mention the gradual
change in temperature which is the best possible scenario. it allows
the plant to slowly go to sleep.
What strange weather patterns over there. I think you should be alright.
In the spring when the plant starts to leaf out, you'll be able to see where
new buds are forming and where they are not. At that time, you may
be able to remove those damaged by the fall temperatures.
I hope that helps. Please let me know if I can be of further assistance.
Q: Hi. I received a potted hydrangea as a gift in late
october/early november. Shortly afterwards, the blue/purple flowers went
brown- I've tried everything and I'm not sure what is working or not working
and what is the problem! Sometimes it gets a little better, sometimes a lot
worse. I have it in diffused sunlight/light, I've tried watering it all different
ways- more water, less water, tried to dry it out a little because sometimes
it seems too wet. It is in a plastic pot and then inside a more decorative
organic grass-like pot. The leaves are crunchy and dried out a bit. There
are a FEW flowers that are in better condition. What do you suggest now?
A: The trouble that you describe is common with forced
hydrangeas. The roots have outgrown the pot and if you overwater, the
roots start to drown. Move it into a larger container that has good
drainage at the bottom.
Here's a write-up I have about Forced hydrangeas. I hope this helps.
The forced varieties are really similar to the outdoor varieties and can
grow like those eventually. We’re really not experts on growing hydrangeas
indoor. However, I'm addicted to the grocery store varieties during
the winter but they are usually moved outdoors within the year. We’re
always on the lookout for something different. Sometimes the forced
flower growers are the first to find the new varieties – but they are very
hesitant to share the name and cultural information.
We've found that forced hydrangeas aren't as healthy as naturally grown
hydrangeas. Hydrangeas grow better if they are allowed to have a dormant
period and a growth period. Most varieties grow very quickly and may
not be healthy if grown inside without moving the plant to a larger pot.
When your forced hydrangea blooms begin to decline and cannot be revived
with water or moving to a larger pot, it is time to cut off the blooms at
the lowest healthy leaf node. Instant fertilizer for acid loving plants
is great for these forced hydrangeas that start to look peaked.
Hydrangeas like slightly acidic soil. In the artificial media that
most of these forced plants are grown, you'll need to keep the acidity level
up (i.e., the pH level down) using tea leaves, coffee grounds or aluminum
sulfate.
If you do move these plants outside, be sure that you don't move them until
the last chance of cold weather has passed and there is no chance of any
frost. Our general rule of thumb is don't move the forced hydrangea
outside until the outside hydrangeas are at the same stage of leaf.
That can be April, May or June, depending on your area. Protect this
sensitive plant for the first few winters. The process that growers
go through to get them to bloom is very tough on the health of the plant.
The chemicals and environmental controls have made the hydrangeas a bit more
delicate to the elements.
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Sincerely,
Kristin VanHoose
Hydrangeas Plus®
http://www.hydrangeasplus.com